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1979 Chevy K10 4x4 (Slightly modified)

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Yes, i got some money tied up in this thing

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8 qt. baffled pan and 10lb. NOS bottle ready for installion

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If i had to do it over again, i would'nt change a thing...

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Standing tall now..

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I know, it could use a bath and a paint job....

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moroso switch panel fits nicely over cubby hole...

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brake line works great for fabricating the NOS lines

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Slightly taller than i thought it would be, 42" to top of wheel-wells

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High and dry

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You put your left foot in, you take your right foot out....

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Ice chests optional for the vertically challenged, i'm 6'4" and still need em

The SBC enjoys hydraulic cams around 230 degrees duration @ .050" and solid cams with around 240 degrees duration @ .050" with 108-109 lobe separation angles will make the best torque, use a single-pattern cam with 5.7" rods for low-end and mid-range power or a dual-pattern cam with 6.0" rods for mid-range and top-end power. Most aftermarket aluminum cylinder heads have a excellent exhaust/intake flow ratio and prefer single-pattern cams as they may over-scavenge the chamber if used with a dual-pattern cam in a normally aspirated configuration, this is a high-revving nitrous motor and benefits from the increased scavenging the dual-pattern cam provides. Small closed-chamber heads with inverted dome pistons are better than large open-chamber heads with domed pistons as a domed piston will interfere with the flame-front and disturb the combustion process, piston to head clearance is important (critical) when building a high compression and must be kept below .060" to achieve effective quench. Clearances larger than .060" with a high-compression engine promote detonation, pinging and eventually piston failure. Pump gas motors will tolerate 9:1 CR with iron heads and 10:1 with aluminum heads but careful attention must be paid when designing such a motor if you want it to survive on the street. A 12.5:1 A/F ratio combined with a super hot ignition that will fire the plug during extreme cylinder pressures, more than adequate cooling system, cool-air induction, free-flowing exhaust with 18-24" collectors, bypass fuel regulator, etc etc......remember the internal combustion engine is nothing but a giant air-pump, the key to squeezing every last ounce of power is to increase the efiiciency of the engine by letting it breathe w/o effort. The exhaust system is far more important than people realize and can actually help pull the fresh air/fuel mixture into the chamber when correctly designed, the exhaust system plays a bigger part in pulling the air/fuel mixture into the chamber than the piston does on it's intake stroke......that's all for now, c ya later.

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Fuel mileage is not a strong selling point..

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70 mph in top gear right there...

A word about Off road Design and driveshaft systems in general, when designing the suspension system for your truck keep in mind that at hiway speeds you will need a CV type shaft to minimize vibration and maximize reliability.
The ORD shackle flip sets the pinion angle almost perfect for a CV
type shaft by rolling the axle housing backwards and lifting the rear 4" simultaneously.
A half degree down pinion angle is preferred because as power is applied the pinion will rise and settle at zero degrees IF you don't have a lot of spring wrap, spring wrap is the twisting of the leaf in the opposite direction of wheel rotation as prodigous amounts of torque are applied to the drivetrain.
Lift blocks will compound the problem by increasing the leverage the axle housing has to wrap the springs, (NOT GOOD).
Pinion snubbers are not practical on long travel suspensions so a 4-link or parallel bars are the next best alternative and will eliminate spring wrap by design.

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8" drop = 4" lift....cutting torch,angle grinder, tapered drift punch and beer required.

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Almost destroyed by Hurricane (spared by the grace of god)

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I wish mad-dog would stop losing his keys

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One of these days i will pour the carport

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Weld em up and redrill cause i srewed em up the 1st time

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I can make it to the gate in 3 seconds......can you?

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Now you see why it's so important to drill straight....

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Don't call me Frances...I'll kill ya!

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The blood donor, '82 K5 (4 sale)
355 cid, 9.5:1 static CR, 4-bolt mains,
Comp Cams XE274H 230/236 dur. @ .050" lift, 274/286 advertised, .523/.529" corrected lift with 1.6:1 rockers.
Comp lifters, pushrods, guide-plates, full-roller rockers.
Dual-roller timing chain and gears.
Hedman hedders, Flowmaster #40 mufflers w/balance pipe behind transfer case.
Dual-plane high-rise intake, Proform 750cfm double-pumper (rejetted) and HVH 1" tapered 4-hole spacer.
MSD 6AL super HEI kit, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel shorty header plugs. Moroso 8 qt. deep sump baffled pan with high volume pump.
TH350 tranny, NP205 transfer w/twin-stick from Off Road Design.
Full posi frt n rr with 3.08 gears.
BF Goodrich 32x11.50/15 all-terrains on steel wheels.
Halmeter AF-30 air/fuel ratio monitor w/heated O2 sensor.
Rough Country 4" lift front springs w/steering stabilizer and O.R.D.
shackle-flip in the rear.
The latest addition is a NOS Sportsman Fogger direct-port nitrous system
jetted for 150hp with a Jacobs Mastermind progressive controller.
The nitrous is fully automated and progressive when armed
This 4x4 is extremely fast and demands my constant attention on the road. 
The engine makes roughly 425HP on the foot and is off the frikkin chain on the juice.
It's not done yet and probably never will be,
The pics are outdated and i will update as time permits, but you get the idea...
 
 
 
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Left turn Clyde
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Beware of the Red Bow-tie
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The view u will see most often.....
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Totally exhausted....
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Halmeter AF/30 with heated O2 sensor at work

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Slightly modified, yea right pal....

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Passing everything but a emissions test..!

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what's all them wires for son...?

Questions or comments? You can send me e-mail at:

Project Scottsdale

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My latest toy, '03 Yamaha FZ1......very fast